Connect with us

Food

For Local Chefs and Farmers, Noma LA is a Big Deal

​Los Angeles restaurants have had a brutal year. The 2025 wildfires tore through entire neighborhoods, destroying businesses and displacing tens of thousands. Then, last summer, LA became the first major US city to face large-scale ICE raids, stoking fear among undocumented immigrants and disrupting the restaurant workforce.. It’s no surprise that more than 100 restaurants closed last year. “I’m worried about whether we can make all of our tortillas today, because some people are afraid to come in to work,” says Sherry Mandell of Tehachapi Grain Project, a farm north of the city preserving drought-tolerant heritage grains.. Into this landscape, Noma—one of the world’s most influential restaurants—arrived to prepare for a four-month residency in Silver Lake this spring. For a city still reeling, some say the timing feels complicated.. The local restaurant industry has largely embraced Noma with open arms. “It’s a nice flex for Los Angeles to have people interested in the city and what we do here,” says Brian Dunsmoor, chef-owner of the acclaimed live-fire restaurant Dunsmoor. But some in the food world, including producers tapped to supply ingredients for Noma’s test kitchen, voice frustration around the restaurant’s tight-lipped approach, sourcing practices, and most obviously, the $1,500 price tag.. As the discourse continues on social media, others have resurfaced controversy spanning at least a few years. For instance, in recent weeks, the restaurant’s former director of fermentation, Jason Ignacio White, on social media alleged physical abuse and the exploitation of interns by Noma founder René Redzepi and his management team.. This is not the first time Noma has been accused of being a toxic workplace. In 2022, Redzepi opened up about undergoing intensive therapy to make amends for his bullying behavior. In 2023, the New York Times reported about “a code of loyalty among Noma alumni [that] makes it impossible for workers to speak out about working conditions, sexual harassment and other problems.” Bon Appétit has not verified the new allegations. In a promotional video on Instagram which drew ire from commenters, Noma addressed the accusations in a pinned comment, writing, in part, “these claims do not reflect the workplace Noma is today.”. Controversy aside, at LA farmers markets, inside restaurants, during food deliveries, the Noma residency is all anyone can talk about.. Industry insiders have spoken of intermittent communication from Noma buyers and have alluded to them pitting farmers against each other in pursuit of better prices. Most of the folks I spoke to for this story said cost would likely prohibit them from eating at Noma L.A.. Still, for a restaurant of Noma’s caliber to choose Los Angeles—even temporarily—brings global attention to the city and raises the stakes for everyone working here.. To Oliver Woolley, the third-generation rancher behind the pig-and-beef farm Peads & Barnetts, that attention feels imp  

Continue Reading
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Food

I’m So Sick of Screens I Got an Old Fashioned Kitchen Timer

​My life is full of screens. Most of my screen time comes from the typical tech trifecta: my phone, laptop, and television. But it creeps in from elsewhere: If I want to queue up a song in my car, I do it on the infotainment system. Going somewhere? I’ll plug the address into my GPS, and if that doesn’t work, Waze and Google Maps are back up. Even things that used to require a brief in-person conversation with a human being—signing in at the doctor’s office or ordering a coffee—require tapping, swiping, and scanning.. My kitchen, once a retreat from all that, has followed suit. I’ve always been a recipe-follower, but now instead of opening a cookbook, I pull up recipes on my computer. I’ll scroll through Apple’s podcast library to find something to listen to while I prep. Then, I’ll tell Siri to set a timer, then move on to texting or scrolling Instagram while I wait. What used to be a totally analog activity has gone almost entirely digital.. So when I got a pitch about a new mechanical kitchen timer from Caraway, I was interested for reasons that had nothing to do with timing. The tiny timer looked so simple: No screen. No Bluetooth. No app. Just a solid, weighty dial to twist, and a ticking sound that gently marks the passing time.. Caraway. Mechanical Kitchen Timer. $45. Caraway. Now, the five seconds it takes to set a timer on my phone is not the core issue behind my screen dependency. But I got one to try anyway out of curiosity. Baby steps, you know?. The design is clean but very old-school, like something you’d see in Mad Men: a smooth circular shape, easy-to-read numbers, and a satisfying resistance when you turn the dial. The stainless steel timer comes in Caraway’s core colors, including a classic cream, sage green, and mustard yellow. I chose the navy to match my favorite teapot (which also happens to be Caraway). It’s heavy enough that it doesn’t slide around the counter, or in my case, on the top lip of the kitchen stove, and small enough that it takes up barely any space at all.. Francesca Krempa  

Continue Reading

Food

Sommeliers and Restaurants Have an AI Problem

​On a strictly economic front, it weakens the value proposition of dining out. “If you’re in a place where the wine list is extensive, and there’s a sommelier, that’s part of what you’re paying for,” says Urbina. “It’s included in the price.”. Talking about wine with an expert who hasn’t been trained on your speech and thought patterns is an investment that pays dividends too. The practice not only helps you develop your own sense of taste, but can also make it easier to find glasses and bottles you’ll enjoy in the future.. If you think about wine as another language, enlisting AI to decide what to order—quick, before the somm comes over!—is like cramming for an exam that no one is making you take. But what if you try having a conversation with a native speaker? As anyone who’s ever shopped in a Parisian market using their middle school French can attest, you tend to acquire a lot more fluency from those real-time exchanges, even (or especially) if they’re clumsy.. Good hospitality professionals aren’t judging you, either. “There’s nothing wrong with not knowing anything about wine or not knowing what to order,” says Annie Shi, the co-owner and beverage director of King and Jupiter, and owner of Lei in New York City. “That’s literally what the staff is there for.”. Unlike any AI app, a qualified somm has tasted each bottle on their list and can guide you through its nuances. For instance, maybe you’re eyeing a Georgian Saperavi to pair with your roast lamb. An AI tool can inform you that Saperavi is a tannic red. But the somm can explain why that particular, qvevri-aged bottle is softer and rounder than others.. Gradually, and then suddenly, you’ve learned about the grape variety, Georgia’s winemaking heritage, and how tannins interact with food—all without even realizing you needed to ask.. “That’s the whole point of all of this,” says Chasity Cooper, author of The Wine Conversation Generator. “It’s so important to put our phones down and actually connect with each other and learn from one another.”. After all, we could all stay at home and drink wine by the blue light of our phones. One reason we put on hard pants (MAYBE) and brave the world outside is to soak up the intangible magic of restaurants. When we give AI the night off, we get to have the sorts of experiences that no algorithm can predict. The robots in our phones could never.  

Continue Reading

Food

The Best Coffee Scales to Level Up Your Pour-Over and Espresso (2026)

​What we love: The Tally Pro’s controls are tactile—a push of a button turns it on, tares the scale or switches modes; a twist of a dial switches between weight measurements like grams, ounces, and milliliters—something that’s a welcome change in a technological world full of tap-tap-tapping. It also has a lovely display. There are so many scales with LCD displays that it’s not only unique to find something with a small OLED screen, it’s also simply easier to read without feeling like you’re just staring at a jumble of numbers.. The Brew Assist Mode removes all the math from the pour-over brewing process. You just select the ratio of coffee-to-water (1 to 16 is a standard place to start). Then just free ground pour coffee into your Chemex, no need to measure, and the Fellow will automatically calculate the amount of water you need to use. Once you’ve brewed with the correct amount the weight will jump out in a white highlight, telling you it’s time to stop pouring.. The simple Weight Mode, generous 2,500 gram (5.5 lb.) capacity, and multiple weight measure options also make this versatile enough to function as an all-purpose kitchen scale or baking scale. The six-inch diameter elevated platform can hold a mixing bowl or container while still allowing for readability of the display.. What we’d leave: There’s no option for flow monitoring, which, in addition to the sheer size of this scale, makes it not ideal for espresso, so functionality is somewhat limited. The nearly $200 price tag isn’t eye-popping (especially compared Acaia’s Pearl pour-over sale), but it isn’t cheap either, especially if you only intend to use it for brewing coffee.. We attempted to use each of these scales for both espresso and pour-over brewing methods, and assessed them on the following:. Accuracy. We tested the accuracy of each scale, using half gram weights, checking readouts on both an empty platform and one with 100 grams of weight on the scale. Next we placed weights at the center and each of the four corners of a scale’s weighing platform to check for accuracy across the surface. We also took into consideration how quickly the scale display updated the weight and if there was any wavering between tenths of a gram. Finally, we added coffee beans, one by one until we registered a reading above zero (typically it shouldn’t take more than two coffee beans to produce a reading of 0.1 gram).. Features and Utility. We used features like timers, auto-tare, and auto-start functions to see how easily the worked into the coffee making process. We also judged the size of the scales and the weighing platforms on whether they would work best for espresso, pour-over, or equally well for both.. How clear and fuss-free were the mechanisms for turning the scale on and off and switching between modes? How functional was the scale in everyday use (could it be your main kitchen scale) and did we feel it helped us make better coffee?. Ease of use. We judged  

Continue Reading

Food

47 Easter Recipes For Brunch, Dinner, and Dessert

​Skip to main content. Recipes. Photograph by Isa Zapata, Food Styling by Thu Buser, Prop Styling by Stephanie De Luca. Whether you’re planning an opulent brunch or just want to know how to make hot cross buns, you’ll find what you’re looking for in this collection of our best Easter recipes. We have timeless holiday classics—looking at you, pineapple-glazed ham—as well as fresh, seasonal dishes that highlight spring produce like asparagus, radishes, and rhubarb.. Jump ahead. Easter brunch recipes. Easter dinner recipes. Easter side dishes. Easter breads & rolls. Easter desserts. Easter cocktails. You’ll find a little bit of everything among our favorite Easter recipes, including recipes for brunch, dinner (heavy on the ham, lamb roasts, and showstopping vegetarian mains), a couple of drinks, and plenty of desserts. Want to dial into a specific category? Venture over to our collections dedicated to Easter sides, Easter dinner ideas, and Easter desserts. Want to find all our favorite recipes in one place? You’re already here.. Photo by Chelsie Craig, styling by Judy Mancini1/47. Eggs Benedict for a Crowd. Eggs poached in advance. A hollandaise that stays luscious for hours. A tray of perfectly toasted, buttery muffins. Yep—this make-ahead, crowd-friendly Easter recipe for brunch, then sit back and rake in the compliments.. Photo by Chelsie Craig, Food Styling by Kate Buckens2/47. French Toast Casserole. No need to stand by the stove to flip slices of French toast—this crowd-friendly casserole is completely hands-off. Make it the night before, and hosting an early-morning Easter brunch will be a breeze.. Photograph by Isa Zapata, Food Styling by Kaitlin Wayne, Prop Styling by Marina Bevilacqua3/47. Extra-Fluffy Cinnamon Rolls With Cream Cheese Frosting. Sure, a lot of recipes promise soft and pillowy cinnamon rolls, swirled with the perfect amount of sugar and spice—but we really mean it. Save yourself some stress on Easter morning by making the dough a day in advance and stashing it in the fridge overnight. In the morning, roll it out, fill it up, and let the second rise happen in a warm spot, like a sunny window.. Photo by Travis Rainey, Food Styling by Luciana Lamboy, Prop Styling by Sean Dooley4/47. Caramelized Onion and Spinach Quiche. Every Easter brunch needs a good quiche. This one, which is packed with deeply browned onions and nutty Gruyère cheese, makes an excellent vegetarian main—but if you want to add a handful of chopped ham, we wouldn’t be mad about it.. Photograph by Emma Fishman, food styling by Susan Ottaviano, prop styling by Sophie Strangio 5/47. Blistered Asparagus Frittata. In-season asparagus doesn’t need much to shine, which is exactly why it deserves a spot on your Easter table. Sauté the stalks in a hot skillet, then carefully layer them atop a rich, cheesy egg mixture for this simple, high-impact frittata.. Photograph by Isa Zapata, Food Styling by Judy Kim, Prop Styling by Stephanie De Luca6/4  

Continue Reading

Food

Reverse-Creaming Is the Secret to the Plushest Cake

​Welcome to Bon Appétit Bake Club, a community of curious bakers. Each month senior Test Kitchen editors Jesse Szewczyk and Shilpa Uskokovic share a must-make recipe and dive deep on why it works. Come bake and learn with us—and don’t forget to join the Bake Club Group chat over on Substack.. Anyone who has whipped up a cake before is familiar with the basic steps of mixing the batter: Cream sugar and butter, add eggs, and finish off with the dry ingredients. It works. But there’s a better way—an alternative method that produces a far more tender crumb without any additional work. It’s a magical, miraculous technique called reverse-creaming.. Reverse-creaming is the secret to tender cakes. Reverse creaming is a technique in which dry ingredients are mixed with butter prior to adding any wet ingredients. So instead of first beating together butter and sugar, you blend butter into the flour mixture until it resembles a wet sand. This approach, popularized by Rose Levy Beranbaum (a Bake Club podcast guest!), coats the flour molecules in a layer of fat that limits gluten formation, resulting in an ultra plush texture. Most recipes online call for a stand mixer, relying on the paddle attachment to fully break down the butter.. I love reverse creaming, and have used it before (many times!) in my recipes. I think of it as an insider technique that produces cakes that are bakery-level in quality. It might seem weird the first time you do it, but once you taste the results, it’s hard to go back.. A new way to reverse-creaming (no mixer required). Our latest Bake Club recipe, our Chocolate Guinness Cake, uses reverse creaming to produce an exceptionally tender cake. But it does so without any special equipment. Instead of relying on the mechanical power of a hand mixer or stand mixer, you simply rub cold cubes of butter into dry ingredients with your fingers. Think of making pie dough—except instead of stopping when the butter is in pea-sized pieces, you keep rubbing until it virtually disappears, completely encasing the flour in fat. This method achieves the same delicate crumb as the traditional approach, with one less thing to clean.. This technique also means it’s all but impossible to overmix your batter. While a lot of cake recipes tell you to err on the side of undermixing, here I’m telling you the opposite. Because, at the end of the day, you need some gluten to form a cake. So once you add your wet ingredients, mix with reckless abandon. And of course, tell me how it all goes in the Substack chat.. Chocolate Guinness Cake. A generous glug of stout gives this snackable loaf a malty depth.. View Recipe  

Continue Reading

Latest News

Politics9 minutes ago

Madhya Pradesh: Stray cattle to get saffron tags to help manage them better

 Approximately four million stray cattle in Madhya Pradesh will receive unique 12-digit saffron tags to distinguish them from domestic animals...

Politics2 hours ago

Meghalaya: 2 killed in police firing as GHADC unrest spirals; curfew imposed

 Two individuals were killed by police gunfire in West Garo Hills, Meghalaya, on Tuesday amid an ongoing night curfew imposed...

HealthNews2 hours ago

More Kids Are in ERs for Tooth Pain. Trump Cuts and RFK Jr.’s Anti-Fluoride Fight Aren’t Helping.

​Eight-year-old Jonah woke up one May morning with a swollen face and a toothache. He refused the pain medication that...

Politics2 hours ago

Delhi HC refuses to stay proceedings against TMC MP’s ex-partner over pet custody

 The Delhi High Court on Tuesday declined to immediately stay the trial court proceedings initiated by All India Trinamool Congress...

Politics2 hours ago

Delhi HC refuses to stay proceedings against TMC MP’s ex-partner over pet custody

 The Delhi High Court on Tuesday declined to immediately stay the trial court proceedings initiated by All India Trinamool Congress...

Politics2 hours ago

Delhi HC refuses to stay proceedings against TMC MP’s ex-partner over pet custody

 The Delhi High Court on Tuesday declined to immediately stay the trial court proceedings initiated by All India Trinamool Congress...

Politics2 hours ago

Delhi HC refuses to stay proceedings against TMC MP’s ex-partner over pet custody

 The Delhi High Court on Tuesday declined to immediately stay the trial court proceedings initiated by All India Trinamool Congress...

Politics2 hours ago

Delhi HC refuses to stay proceedings against TMC MP’s ex-partner over pet custody

 The Delhi High Court on Tuesday declined to immediately stay the trial court proceedings initiated by All India Trinamool Congress...

Politics2 hours ago

Delhi HC refuses to stay proceedings against TMC MP’s ex-partner over pet custody

 The Delhi High Court on Tuesday declined to immediately stay the trial court proceedings initiated by All India Trinamool Congress...

Politics2 hours ago

Delhi HC refuses to stay proceedings against TMC MP’s ex-partner over pet custody

 The Delhi High Court on Tuesday declined to immediately stay the trial court proceedings initiated by All India Trinamool Congress...

Trending News

Join Our Newsletter

Stay updated with breaking news and exclusive content.