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Chiffon Is the Secret to a Roll Cake That Doesn’t Crack

​Welcome to Bon Appétit Bake Club, a community of curious bakers. Each month senior Test Kitchen editors Jesse Szewczyk and Shilpa Uskokovic share a must-make recipe and dive deep on why it works. Come bake and learn with us—and don’t forget to join the Bake Club Group chat over on Substack.. Jesse and I didn’t intend to run two cake recipes back to back in Bake Club, but in hindsight it is the happiest coincidence. Both cakes—last month, chocolate Guinness; this month, strawberry roll—illustrate two diametrically opposite styles that I’m very excited to dive into.. A lesson in cake lineage. All cakes descend from one of two methods: creaming (like Jesse’s Chocolate Guinness Cake) or foaming (like my Strawberry Shortcake Roll).. Creamed cakes start with the fat. You beat butter—or oil, or butter and oil—with sugar (or flour in the case of reverse creaming), then add the remaining ingredients from there. The result is a hefty cake with a moist, tender crumb that needs little to no frosting (think of pound cake or banana bread).. Foamed cakes, on the other hand, start with the eggs. You whip either whole or separated eggs with some or all of the sugar, until aerated and voluminous, then incorporate the other ingredients. Because the eggs act as the main source of structure and height, these cakes are light and delicate, with an enjoyably soft, springy texture.. The curious case of chiffon. Of all the sponge-style cakes out there—genoise, dacquoise, angel food, joconde, biscuit (pronounced the French way: bees-qwee)—chiffon is my absolute favorite. Chiffon cake’s origin story is fascinating, starting with an insurance salesman who moved to Hollywood, and ending in classic capitalism (the inventor ultimately sold his formula to General Mills). Made with whipped egg (whites) just like its other spongy siblings, but containing a percentage of fat (in the form of egg yolks and oil) which rivals that of a butter cake, chiffon is the golden child that unites our two noble cake families.. It is exactly this hybrid that makes chiffon particularly well-suited to rolling. The high ratio of whipped egg white provides structure and lightness, and the egg proteins make the cake surprisingly strong, despite its featherweight nature implying otherwise. The yolks and oil (it’s always oil in chiffon cakes) provide moisture and richness, keeping the cake pliable even after it has fully cooled, allowing it to flex under your palms into a perfect coil. (That means no need to pre-shape the hot cake with a kitchen towel, as most roll cake recipes tend to instruct. ). We don’t often encounter sponge-style cakes in modern American baking. They’re often dismissed as dry and underwhelming. But within their bouncy, porous interior lies a world of possibility. A sponge cake’s ability to support vast quantities of syrup, juicy fruit, or creamy, mousse-like fillings makes it a sterling foundation for architectural cakes that feel luxurious but are  

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Food

The Best Bars and Cafes in Phoenix Right Now

​In a place as hot as Phoenix, you just need good drinks. The city’s top brewers, mixologists, and baristas have been quietly turning heads for a decade, the best channeling the unique energy and creative spirits of the desert. Recently, a new crop of maestros has emerged.. The best spots can be elusive. Phoenix spreads over a whopping 517 square miles, and that’s not even including adjacent towns like Scottsdale and Tempe. To taste the drink landscape to its last wonky drop, you need to plot a course beyond downtown hubs.. Brewheads know that the Valley of the Sun’s beer scene has been a powerhouse for a decade. Two of the biggest stalwarts—Arizona Wilderness Brewing Company and Wren House Brewing Company—have opened new outposts expanding their visions.. Meanwhile, the coffee scene is becoming more fun. Consider the island vibes and shakerato riffs of Wonderift Coffee in Ahwatukee, while on Grand Avenue, Malegría Cafe blends Salvadorian horchata lattes, reflecting how local coffee culture is embracing Latin influences.. Cocktails have been the beverage ecosystem’s keystone for the past decade, and a new crop of maestros is pushing into new directions. With thoughtful emerging bars like the produce-forward, high-tech Legends Never Die and the Indian-inflected cocktails of Indibar, the Valley’s cocktail scene continues to expand into a bold, multi-sensory frontier.. Whatever your preference, here are eight top new places to drink in Metro Phoenix.. Photograph by Ivory Rose. Malegría Cafe. 1031 Grand Avenue, Phoenix. instagram.com/malegria.cafe/. On Grand Avenue, a dusty thoroughfare of art galleries and gritty, excellent eateries, uncompromising storefronts burst with life: artisan piñatas, retro neon signs. Newcomer Malegía Cafe fits right in, with a mural depicting the national birds of Mexico, El Salvador, and Guatemala, broadcasting its roots and style. The birds represent owner Melina Ruano Serrano’s heritage as well as the coffee cultures she braids together.. Don’t Miss: Serrano makes café de olla, fragrant with cloves, cinnamon, and star anise, while her Salvadorian lattes, particularly the horchata version, are real gems. She blends a Salvi horchata using toasted rice, cinnamon, peanuts, and a mix of seeds, which gives a sweet, spellbinding foundation for power to a latte made with beans from small-batch roaster Condor Coffee.. Photograph by Lauren Topor  

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Food

The Best Meal Delivery Services, After Years of Testing (Plus Photos)

​Green Chef, owned by Hello Fresh, offers (mostly) organic, seasonal produce, with an emphasis on sustainably sourced protein, whole grains, whole fruits and vegetables, healthy fats, and low to no-added sugars. It’s the kit to try if buying organic is important to you, and/or if you want to incorporate recipes that meet the criteria for certain diets (keto, Mediterranean, high-protein, etc.). To streamline prep, Green Chef ships all sauces, stocks, and herb blends premixed, with some vegetables precut. Add-ons are plentiful too, from meat and seafood sampler packs to smoothie kits, frozen desserts, packaged ramen, and dumplings.. Senior service editor Kelsey Jane Youngman found the meals easy to cook. Each labeled bag comes with a full-color recipe card with clear instructions and photos of every major step. Green Chef is upfront about what’s not included (salt, pepper, sugar, butter, and oil), but everything else you need is in the box. Youngman felt confident a beginner cook could follow along, though cook times may vary by experience. Most meals required at least two pans and leaned into smart, simultaneous cooking techniques: boiling bulgur while squash roasts, and a pork fillet sears on the stovetop. These are not one-pan meals.. “The food was, in general, good,” says Youngman. Her favorite was the Italian Turkey Stuffed Squash Boats, well-seasoned ground turkey bulked up with nutty bulgur and tender kale, spooned over golden-brown roasted zucchini and topped with a creamy pesto riff. The geometry was a little off (one zucchini was tiny, one enormous), but the taste more than made up for it. Her least favorite, the Spiced Salmon with Mango Salsa, came down to ratios and personal preference rather than any fundamental flaw. The salmon itself was fresh, well-seasoned, and perfectly cooked, but the accompanying hash skewed heavily toward purple sweet potato with barely any bell pepper, and the Cotija felt like an odd pairing with the fish. Overall, the recipes were reliable if occasionally repetitive, and the ingredients were consistently fresh, making it a solid pick for people who want to cook without spending hours in the kitchen or at the grocery store.. What was the ordering experience like? Signing up is simple, and new customers are typically offered a first-time discount. After entering payment information, you’ll select a dietary preference (options include Protein Packed, Plant-Based, Mediterranean, Gluten-Free, Keto, Calorie Smart, Quick & Easy, and Gut & Brain Health), which filters your top recipe picks, though you can browse all 80-plus weekly options regardless. Skipping a week or adjusting a delivery date is easy and won’t disrupt your subscription.. How was the unboxing experience? Everything arrived properly packaged and cold, with each meal’s ingredients grouped together in a labeled brown paper bag. Individual items, down to half a bell pepper or a single diced onion, came in their own plastic bags, and premade sauces  

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Food

The Truth and Fiction About Copper Cookware

​What I’ll say is this. In general, I’ve found that cookware enthusiasts online profess a blanket preference for thicker, heavy cookware. As a cookware tester, I feel that ease of use and maneuverability are just as important when evaluating a pan, so I think lighter cookware shouldn’t be discounted, and I think this experiment demonstrated this well.. 2. If you want that mythical copper performance, learn to love a tin-lined pan.. For that quick, responsive, and even-heating performance, an old school tin-lined pan is pretty unmatched. As a nonreactive metal coating, tin is lighter, more responsive, and more thermally efficient than stainless-steel.. Once the standard lining for copper cookware, most modern manufacturers of copper cookware have phased out tin in favor of stainless steel because it’s far more durable. Tin starts to melt between 450–475°F, which means that you can damage the lining of the pan by overheating it. Because copper pans are so thermally efficient, using high heat isn’t necessary (remember, professional French kitchens have used pans like these for a long time without issue), but it’s something anyone considering copper cookware should bear in mind, especially if they share kitchen equipment with less careful people. Being a softer metal, tin linings can also wear away over time, requiring occasional re-tinning.. Defenders of tin-lined pans will argue that these concerns are generally overblown, and that with proper care, a tin-lined pan can put in a decade or more of work before it’s worn down to the point where relining is required. But comparing that to stainless steel that can last a lifetime, it’s hard to say they are equal.. Photo by Travis Rainey, Prop Styling by Tim Ferro. Again, we must return to the reason why you want copper cookware. If it’s for the look, go for what you think is beautiful. The worst case scenario is probably that you end up with something that performs a lot like a nice stainless steel-clad pan, only is better looking. But if you want performance, go the old-school route and choose a tin-lined pan. The only cookware I’d really steer clear from would be predominantly stainless-steel cookware that has a layer of copper or a copper core: To quote the immortal words of Freckle, “Sometimes, things that are expensive…are worse.”. Ruffoni. Historia Hammered Copper 7-Piece Cookware Set with Acorn Knobs. $1,715 $1,200 (30% off). Williams Sonoma  

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Food

Pasta With Fresh Tomato Sauce (No-Cook)

​When fresh tomatoes are at their peak, the move isn’t to cook them down—it’s to leave them alone. This no-cook tomato sauce lets ripe summer tomatoes do the most, yielding a bright, juicy sauce with little more than salt, time, and a few smart additions.. The seeds and surrounding juices inside uncooked tomatoes can be slightly bitter and astringent, so squeeze them out before chopping the flesh (this also prevents the sauce from getting too watery). After chopping, let the tomatoes sit with the garlic and vinegar for at least 30 minutes, until everything softens. Then toss with hot pasta, butter, oil, and Parmesan to form a glossy emulsified sauce you’ll want to eat all summer long.. What kind of tomatoes are best for no-cook sauce?. Use ripe, meaty varieties like heirloom, plum, or Roma tomatoes. Slightly overripe ones are ideal (they should feel full-to-bursting, like a water balloon); they’re sweeter and juicier and make a better fresh tomato sauce.. What Are Heirloom Tomatoes, Anyway?. What’s the Difference Between All the Types of Tomatoes?. Do I really need to remove the seeds?. Yes. The seeds and their surrounding liquid can taste bitter and make a no-cook tomato sauce watery. Removing them helps the sauce stay balanced and cling to the pasta. (Save the juices for beans or stir them into mayo for an egg sandwich.). How Get Those Damn Seeds Out of Your Tomatoes. What if my sauce seems watery?. This sauce won’t thicken like a cooked marinara. But if you think it’s looser than ideal, make sure you’ve fully removed the seeds and pulp and that the pasta is hot when you add it to the bowl. If it’s still loose, add more finely grated Parmesan and toss, toss, toss.. Does fresh tomato sauce need pasta water?. Not strictly, but a small splash can help emulsify the sauce so it coats the noodles. It’s worth reserving some in case things look dry—it’ll loosen and gloss everything back up.. Pasta Water is Liquid Gold, Here’s How to Use It. Can I make it ahead? Or freeze it?. Yes. This no-cook tomato sauce should sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes (and up to 5 hours) so the juices release and flavors meld.. Want to preserve those peak tomatoes for months to come? Freeze the sauce in airtight containers. Be sure to let it cool completely before transferring to the containers, and leave an inch or two of room for expansion. Let the sauce thaw overnight in the fridge, then bring it to a light simmer before using.  

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Food

Where to Stay in New Orleans If You Like to Eat

​It’s not new to call New Orleans one of the best food cities in the country. We’ve been planning trips to eat powdered-sugar-dusted beignets at Café du Monde and the iconic pecan-crusted gulf fish at Commander’s Palace for over 60 years. But in addition to Cajun, Creole, and soul food institutions, the city continues to welcome new spots serving inventive contemporary Mexican, West African, and Indian cuisines—all which play into the diverse, lively vibe of New Orleans.. Here, we break down the main neighborhoods, where to eat within them, and where to stay so that you don’t miss a single place to eat (and drink).. Start with grab-and-go pastries to savor while you stroll the quiet residential neighborhood of Marigny. A little walk to Ayu Bakehouse, especially in the early morning while most of the neighborhood is still dozing, is a great start to the day. Try the soft and savory Parmesan-and-chive biscuit with butter and the slightly sweet kaya bun (trust us and get some chili oil on the side) with whatever seasonal drink is available.. Loretta’s Pralines is a great place to go for your next pastry fix. Beyond traditional beignets and some of the best pralines in the city, it has beignets stuffed with pralines (a natural marriage), cheeseburger, and crabmeat. Speaking of beignets, there are quite a few Cafe du Monde locations across greater New Orleans, but the outpost in City Park is something of a hidden gem: Indoor seating keeps you from melting while you wait for your treats—which shouldn’t be long because this location is never mobbed the way the more famous spot off of Jackson Square can be. Order a hot cafe au lait, frozen cafe au lait, or hot cocoa to wash down your beignets.. Walking along the Mississippi River or cruising the mall with a frozen cocktail from Fat Tuesday is a simple, affordable joy. In addition to the classic flavors like 190 Octane, piña colada, and margarita, you can also get off-menu daiquiri specials.. Courtesy of Hotel Peter & Paul. See Availability at Booking.comSee Availability at Expedia. At Hotel Peter and Paul, you might find yourself taking a photo of every last charming corner. The property was once a 19th-century Catholic school and church campus, complete with a rectory and nunnery, and each room has a rotary phone and other touches of the not-so-distant past. The stellar team at Ash NYC is behind the property’s revival in late 2018 and didn’t miss a beat—service is warm and welcoming, the hotel’s own map of the neighborhood comes handily marked with the staff’s favorite bars and restaurants, and even the custom-blended toiletries are a real treat.  

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