Place one 10–12-lb. whole beef brisket, fat trimmed to ¼” thick, on a rimmed baking sheet. Mix ⅓ cup Diamond Crystal or 3 Tbsp. plus 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt and ⅓ cup freshly ground pepper in a small bowl to combine and sprinkle all over meat (it should look like sand stuck to wet skin but without being cakey). Let sit at room temperature 1 hour.
Step 2
If using a gas grill: While meat is sitting, place 6 cups wood chips in a large bowl and pour in water to cover. Let soak at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours before using. (Leave in water throughout the cooking process.) Keep remaining 2 cups wood chips dry. Light 1 burner to medium (A; if using a 3-burner grill, light burner on either end). Make sure drip tray (B) is empty, as a lot of fat will render. Place smoker box (C) over the lit burner, add ½ cup soaked wood chips to box, and close grill. Adjust heat as needed to keep temperature at 225–250°. We recommend using a stand-alone thermometer, even if your grill has one, to ensure an accurate reading. Stick it through the gap between lid and base of grill (or set it on the grill’s upper shelf (D), though this is not ideal, as it requires opening the lid more often). The wood chips should begin to smolder and release a steady stream of smoke. How long this takes depends on how wet your chips are and the heat of your grill. To get more smoke without increasing grill heat, add a few dry chips to the soaked ones.
Illustration by Joe McKendry
If using a charcoal grill or smoker: While meat is sitting, fill a chimney starter with charcoal; light and let burn until coals are covered with a thin layer of ash. Pour contents of chimney into one side of grill or smoker. Place 3 chunks of wood next to (not on top of) coals. (You want the wood to catch slowly and smolder. Placing them on top of the coals will cause them to burn too quickly.) Place grate on grill or smoker and cover, positioning vent on lid as far from heat source as possible. (This will help draw the smoke up and over meat as it rises). Stick thermometer through top vent. Heat until thermometer registers 225–250°, adjusting vents on bottom and top of grill or smoker as needed to maintain temperature.
Step 3
If using a gas grill: Place brisket, fatty side up, on grate over indirect heat (E), arranging as far away from lit burner as possible. Cover grill and smoke brisket, adjusting heat as needed to keep temperature between 225–250°, checking wood chips every 45 minutes or so and adding more soaked chips by ½-cupfuls as needed to keep smoke level constant, and rotating meat every 3 hours and turning as needed if top or bottom is coloring faster than the other, until very tender but not falling apart and an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 195°–205°, 10–12 hours total.* (Resist the urge to open grill often, as this will cause the temperature to fluctuate.)
If using a charcoal grill or smoker: Place brisket, fatty side up, on grate over indirect heat, arranging as far away from lit burner as possible. Cover grill or smoker and smoke brisket, adjusting vents as needed to control temperature, checking coals and hardwood about every 45 minutes, and rotating meat every 3 hours and turning as needed if top or bottom is coloring faster than the other, until very tender but not falling apart and an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 195°–205°, 10–12 hours total.* (Open lid as little as possible; check and replenish coals and hardwood at the same time.) For the coals, once you have checked them and decided to add more (they’ve burned down enough that you’ll need more to keep your fire going and maintain your grill temperature), fill a chimney halfway with coals, then add coals to grill once they’re covered with a thin layer of ash. (If you have a hinged grill grate, you can remove 1 lit coal from grill with a pair of long tongs and place at bottom of chimney to quickly light more coals.) If you control the heat well, you shouldn’t need more than 4–6 chimneyfuls of coals to cook brisket (2–4 chimneyfuls if finishing brisket in the oven). When checking hardwood, move it around to a hotter spot if needed, or replenish extinguished chunks to keep level of smoking constant. Make sure to reposition top vent on lid over meat and away from heat source when replacing.
*Note: If you don’t want to spend your entire day tending the grill, here’s a fail-safe Aaron Franklin–endorsed alternative method that will deliver similarly glorious results: Smoke brisket on grill or smoker as instructed until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 150–170°, about 5–6 hours. Wrap brisket in foil, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and bake in a 250° oven until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 195–205°, 4–6 hours. What’s important is getting that smoky flavor into the meat, and 5–6 hours on the grill should do it. After that point, you’re simply getting the meat cooked through.
Step 4
Transfer brisket to a carving board and let rest at least 30 minutes. Slice brisket against the grain ¼” thick. Transfer to a platter and serve with coleslaw, potato salad, and pinto beans alongside if desired.
Do ahead: Brisket is best shortly off the grill, but you can still get good results smoking it up to 3 days ahead. Let cool 1 hour, then wrap in foil and chill. Reheat, still wrapped, in a 325° oven until warmed through.
Photo by Christopher Testani
Editor’s note:This smoked brisket recipe was first printed in our July 2013 issue; it has been updated for style. Head this way for our favorite BBQ side dishes →
The Best Personal Blenders for Solo Smoothies and Small Batch Sauces
What we love: The biggest problem with most personal blenders is that they lack the motor power that makes something like a Vitamix so effective. Not so with the Nutribullet Ultra, which has an impressive 1,200-watt motor that cuts through everything we threw at it with shocking ease for a blender of this size. For reference, our favorite Vitamix, the 5200, has a not-actually-that-much-more-powerful 1,380-watt motor, and a standard Nutribullet model has a wattage of 600.
At 1,200-watts, the Ultra is tied for the most powerful personal blender we’ve ever used, and the benefits of that superior wattage shone through in our testing. The Ultra was able to turn a pile of fibrous kale (with stems!), frozen fruit, and almond milk into a creamy smoothie with ease, and it produced beautifully emulsified, supremely smooth pesto in 30 seconds flat—something no other personal blender we tested could do.
That top-notch blending performance is also partially due to the design of the titanium-coated stainless-steel blade, which has six prongs, as opposed to the four I’ve seen in most comparable models.
Even setting aside the stellar performance and powerful motor, there’s a lot to love about this mini blender design-wise. It’s equipped with thoughtful features that make it more pleasant to use than other models: very strong suction cup feet that do an excellent job at keeping the unit stable on the counter while the machine is running, a thick-rimmed lid that doesn’t leak, and sleek, intuitive-to-operate touchscreen buttons. Its two modes allow you to run a 30-second blend cycle, or press and hold to blend or pulse.
The Ultra comes with two extra BPA-free blending jars (including a handled one) and two to-go lids. I’ve been using it to take smoothies on my morning commute.
What we’d leave: Though this is an impressive little machine, a personal blender will never afford you the blending power of a premium full-size model like a Vitamix, so it’s important to set reasonable expectations. If you’re looking to crush ice cubes in large quantities or make nut butters, this is not be the blender for you. Other than that, at $165 at the time of writing, this is a great value for the amount of horsepower you’re getting—especially when compared with a Vitamix, which will run you anywhere from $380–$750.
In the long run: “Having this blender at home actually turned me into a smoothie person. I’ve begun using it to make them for myself and my kids for breakfast a couple of days a week. The Nutribullet’s performance is as good now as it was when I first got it over a year ago, zipping up well-blended mixtures of kale, frozen berries, and coconut water.
The real benefit of the Ultra, though, has turned out to be the mini food processor that comes as an optional add-on. If you are considering getting this blender and you do any cooking at all, do yourself a favor and get the processor attachment. I use it to mince garlic and ginger or chop onions every week, often on multiple nights. They’re tasks I find particularly tedious, and, especially in the case of just a couple cloves of garlic, impractical in my regular food processor (who wants to take that thing down and clean it up for two cloves of garlic?). In the mini-processor, the work is done in 10 seconds with the mess quite contained.” —Noah Kaufman, senior commerce editor
Good to know: For an additional $80, you can upgrade to the Nutribullet Ultra Plus+ Compact Kitchen System, which includes the motor base, two blending cups with to-go lids, as well as a coffee/spice grinder (keep it for spices, use a burr grinder for coffee) and mini food processor attachments. There are also a number of other models in the Nutribullet lineup, including the Pro+, Pro 1000 (reviewed below), Pro, and classic Nutribullet.
Juneteenth Foods: 23 Recipes for a Cookout Celebration
There is more than one way to celebrate Juneteenth. Backyard cookouts, humble picnics at the neighborhood park, and local festivals serving barbecue and strawberry soda all honor June 19, 1865, the day more than 200,000 enslaved Black Americans learned they were free—more than two years after President Abraham Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation. Though Juneteenth has only recently been recognized as a federal holiday, Black communities across the United States have celebrated “freedom day” or “emancipation day” for generations.
At the center of many Juneteenth gatherings is the cookout: an intergenerational spread where smoky meats, fresh sides, icy drinks, and seasonal desserts bring people together. From Houston to Milwaukee to Oakland and Washington, D.C., home cooks often build their menus around crowd-pleasing staples like grilled meats, hot links, fish fries, slaws, baked beans, and cobblers. Red drinks are a longstanding part of Juneteenth celebrations too; hibiscus, watermelon, and ruby-hued fruit punches are often served as a tribute to resilience, remembrance, and West African culinary traditions carried across the diaspora.
The Juneteenth recipes below span smoky mains, fresh sides, red drinks, and celebratory desserts—all made for gathering with family and friends.
Every Home Cook Needs a Salt Cellar Next to the Stove
Home cooks spend plenty of time thinking about pan racks, knife storage, and perfect coffee stations, but one of the hardest-working tools in the kitchen often gets overlooked: the salt cellar. Because salt seasons nearly every step of cooking, it really should a dedicated spot within arm’s reach of the stove—and a container that’s as functional as it is beautiful. Once you start using one, it’s hard to stop at just one. I keep a dual-compartment cellar for kosher and flaky salt by the cooktop, another dish on the table for finishing, and could make a case for placing one anywhere food (or cocktails) happen.
And while practicality should be top of mind, so should design. In fact, your salt cellar should be stylish if it’s getting the spotlight in your kitchen. Classic salt cellar designs usually come in two styles. The first, also referred to as “salt pigs”, commonly look like pipes growing out of your kitchen counter, with wide openings at the top that allow you to reach in and access the salt easily. This shape cleverly keeps the salt protected from dust and kitchen grease without the need for a lid that can be annoying to remove with dirty hands while you’re cooking.
Alternatively, lidded salt cellars are often have hinged lids that can either be flung upwards or swung to the side with a light finger flick. This keeps salt protected from moisture while still allowing easy access. Below, I’ve rounded up a variety of beautiful and useful options (some are both!) that I’d proudly allow to take up permanent residence on my countertop—and you should, too.
Classic ‘salt pigs’
If you want to stick with the tried-and-true, salt-pig design, these options are both stylish and utilitarian. Whether you’re reaching for a handful of cooking salt or finishing off with coarse sea salt, they’ll keep your seasoning fresh and ready for action.
Looking for sunshine in a bowl? This bright, gently spiced yellow squash soup is exactly that. A dash of curry powder brings warmth and vivid color, while fresh ginger, onion, and garlic build brightness and savory depth.
We use vegetable broth and finish the soup with unsweetened coconut yogurt to keep it vegan, but you can easily swap in chicken broth and plain whole-milk yogurt if you prefer. The result is a silky, lightly curried summer squash soup that’s just as good warm as it is chilled.
Tips for making yellow squash soup
What kind of summer squash should I use for squash soup?
Crookneck or straightneck yellow squash are our favorites here for their naturally sweet, creamy texture, but any summer squash works well. Yellow zucchini and pattypan squash are both great substitutes.
What’s the difference between yellow squash and zucchini?
Yellow squash usually refers to crookneck or straightneck varieties with a tapered neck and bulbous base. They tend to be sweeter and more delicate than yellow zucchini, which is firmer with a slight bitterness. Either works well in this soup.
What kind of curry powder should I use? Can I make it without?
Any curry powder will work here, but we prefer a turmeric-forward blend for its warm flavor and golden color. Madras curry powder will make the soup a bit spicier, while vadouvan is more mellow and savory with subtle onion and garlic notes. You can also make homemade curry powder, like this aromatic, chile-free Trinidadian version from Epicurious.
If you’d rather skip it, you can season the soup with cumin, coriander, or smoked paprika instead—or leave the spice out entirely for a more classic squash soup.
How do I make squash soup smooth and creamy?
Blending the soup thoroughly while it’s hot is key. For extra creaminess, add a splash of coconut milk or yogurt, or cook a small sliced potato with the squash.
Can summer squash soup be served cold or chilled?
Yes. This soup is delicious chilled. Just note that it will thicken in the fridge, so you may want to loosen it with a splash of broth or water before serving.