Finding Tokyo’s real flavours

First off, if you are one of those people who need to eat dal chawal even while travelling abroad, you should not read any further. If you are one of those people who believe that you learn about a country or place through its food, read on. It is impossible to have a bad meal in Tokyo – whether at a small izakaya or at a fancy 5-star. Although I would recommend that you avoid the latter, because there’s so much to experience on the streets of Japan. Go where the locals eat. That should be your guiding light.

So here’s what I ate and some tips of the eating trade. It is serious business after all. On our first day in Tokyo, we went to Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku. A small set of slim alleys lined by tiny izakayas, there are around 80 of them, which seat 6 or 7 people at most, and are run by just one man or a woman. Omoide Yokocho is also known as Memory Lane. These are neat, simple-looking little eateries – serving anything but simple flavours.

These are mostly ramen and yakitori joints, which also serve highballs and whisky, not to mention the most delicious wagyu ever. You sit at a counter facing forward, next to each other, looking at the chef, and you choose the gyu-kushi (beef skewers) or yakitori (chicken skewers). This is then served to you, and you grill it for barely 2 minutes on a piping-hot grill, dip it in some soy, and feel blessed.

(Photo: Rajyasree Sen)

Most of these joints only take cash, but the Japanese trust your word so much that if you realise you have no cash on you, they ask you to finish your meal and then send you to the ATM down the road to bring them their payment. Nothing is more expensive than a couple of hundred yen, that’s Rs 100 or Rs 200.

Tiny alleys, massive taste

In the evening, for another taste of Tokyo life, trot over to the bars at Shinjuku Golden Gai. Located in Kabukicho, Golden Gai is a network of six narrow alleys, with over 200 tiny shanty-style bars. I’d go to Golden Gai to walk around, take a look at the very cute tiny bars – some of which can seat just 4 or 5 people – and have one drink at most. Again, carry cash as most places don’t accept cards.

If you want to see a hipper but history-steeped part of Tokyo, you should definitely head to the Showa Era open-air bars under the flyover in Ginza. A line of restaurants frequented by locals, serving up local Japanese delicacies. These are not fancy restaurants, but you’ll definitely get delicious food here.

One of our finest meals was at the Edo Period-inspired Tokuro Izakaya, which had the most delicious beef rice and unagi rice, and a sashimi platter that we couldn’t even finish. It looks like you’ve entered a traditional Edo-period home, with Japanese-style seating.

The ritual of Shabu Shabu

A visit to Tokyo would not be complete without trying Shabu Shabu, which is what we had at Shabu Sen in Ginza. Shabu Shabu is a dish featuring thinly sliced beef and pork, which is boiled in beef broth at the table. You sit facing the restaurant’s central island, alongside each other. The focus is on the food.

You are served a platter of meat and vegetables, along with sesame and ponzu sauces, at the table. You add hot sesame oil to the sesame sauce. Add grated radish and green onions to the ponzu sauce. And then you swish the meats and mushrooms around in the boiling-hot pot, dip them in the sauces if you wish, add them to your rice, and thank the Japanese gods. The term “shabu shabu” is an onomatopoeia, derived from the sound made while cooking the produce.

All these restaurants aim to make their food easy to understand and accessible to tourists. While Japanese families surrounded us, we were still handed a detailed English instruction manual on what we had ordered and how to eat it, leaving no room for confusion.

Torihan is a small yakitori restaurant run by an old couple in their Seventies. (Photos: Rajyasree Sen)

Our last supper in Tokyo was a true celebration of Japan’s attention to detail and its belief in keeping things simple. Torihan is a small yakitori restaurant run by an old couple in their Seventies. But beautifully designed, with cloak hangers and a box for your handbags – each piece of crockery used was lovely, and the food! Never has chicken tasted so good. We did 10 skewers for 8,000 yen. What I discovered is that, in India, we use the word yakitori to mean any Japanese grilled skewer, but in Japan, it means chicken skewers. Never has the chicken been so celebrated.

Of the courses I remember, there were so many, we started with the chicken pâté, and chicken chest on toast. Chicken breast skewers, skewers of meat from under the chicken wing and chicken gizzard, followed by chicken heart and chicken liver, a skewer of chicken meatball which looked like a seekh kebab with a poached egg and charred bell pepper, chicken neck skewers and chicken wing, perfectly braised duck, and wagyu to end the meal with. Each course was explained to us by the proprietor, and the only two people preparing food and serving it in the restaurant were the husband and wife.

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We had the best Pork Ramen at a local stall, which we chanced upon, where no one spoke English, there were no forks, and you paid Rs 400 for what turned out to be the most fabulous ramen possible. Even in small restaurants churning out food to hundreds of tourists, the soba noodle soup and prawn tempura are fabulous. And presented beautifully.

My favourite discovery was the Chicken Karaage! Japan’s version of crumb-fried chicken, which you can even pick up at the corner 7/11 store. Twice-fried, boneless chicken thighs are marinated in soy, ginger, mirin, and sake, then crumbed and fried. I have never had such succulent, tasty fried chicken.

Michelin-rated Unagi

My last hurrah, though, was at the Narita airport, where I decided to eat even though I was stuffed. And tried the unagi or eel at the Michelin-rated Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa Global Gate restaurant, which was opened by a local eel seller way back in 1932. This was the best unagi I have had, that too for a princely sum of Rs 1,000!

Grilled over high-heat charcoal, the eel has a crispy, fragrant outer layer and a soft, juicy interior. This is a Kabayaki-style grilled eel experience: the eel is butterflied, skewered, grilled, and then glazed with a sweet, savoury soy-based sauce, which you eat with rice.

(Photo: Rajyasree Sen)

As I said, it is impossible to have an average meal in Japan. I do think the cuisine is not geared towards vegetarians – most broths are meat or fish-based. The vegetarian staple is tofu. But if you do eat meat, this is the country for you. Minimal, if not zero, spices, a celebration of the produce, and lightly grilled food, beautifully presented, at ridiculously affordable prices. What’s not to love?

A few tips and points of appreciation – the country is obsessed with iced water, and even the smallest or most local restaurant will have jugs of iced water for customers. You are not supposed to tip in restaurants, as the Japanese believe they are paid well enough not to depend on tips to get by. Always check whether the restaurant accepts cards or cash before sitting down, even though they seem very happy to let you eat and then go pick up cash to pay them post-facto. How civilised.

All in all, I can only say: Arigato, Tokyo, you have fed me well.

Next week, I’ll be writing about my travels through “Japan’s Kitchen,” the nation’s street-food capital, Osaka. And what you definitely must try while there.

However, safety is extremely important at this age. The exercise should always be done with very light resistance, controlled movements, and without overstretching the arms. “It should be stopped immediately if there is any pain or discomfort, especially in the shoulders,” Goyal said.

From a practical perspective, while cable chest fly can be included occasionally, the main focus for people in their 80s should remain on walking, balance training, light strength exercises, and joint mobility to maintain overall functional independence, as Goyal noted. “Even simple exercises like light strength training, resistance band work, and functional movements can make a huge difference. They help in preserving muscle mass, improving bone health, and reducing the risk of falls,” said Goyal.

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Hailing his efforts, Goyal said that what stands out is not the intensity, but the consistency and intent. “At this age, the goal is not six-pack abs or heavy lifting. It’s about maintaining mobility, muscle strength, balance, and independence. And that’s exactly what his routine reflects,” said Goyal.

Walking is beneficial (Photo: Freepik)

Training in the presence of a trainer and family member is also very important. “It ensures safety, correct form, and motivation. For older adults, supervised workouts reduce the risk of injury and build confidence,” mentioned Goyal.

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According to Goyal, from a health perspective, staying active at 84 is not just about fitness; it’s about quality of life. Regular movement supports better joint health, improved circulation, and even mental well-being. “The biggest takeaway here is that it’s never too late to start. Fitness doesn’t have an age limit. It just needs to be adapted to your body, your capacity, and your lifestyle,” said Goyal.

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine.